Dr. Paolo Vranjes is a renowned Italian perfumer and chemist recognised for creating some of the world’s most luxurious fragrances. To celebrate the 40th anniversary of his brand, Dr. Vranjes Firenze, and the opening of a new store in Bangkok, Dr. Vranjes sits down with Prestige to detail his journey into the industry and where he finds inspiration for his craft.
Olfaction, or the sense of smell, plays a crucial role in our everyday lives as it is one of the most powerful and primal senses we possess. Not only does it link to our emotions but revisiting a smell can transport us back in time to a specific place or treasured moment in our lives.
As a result of this, scenting has become closely linked to luxury living. A well-crafted fragrance can have a calming effect on the mind and body, and can create a desirable ambience, which is what we all ultimately wish to have across homes and personal spaces.
Moreover, although perfumery is often considered an art, at its core it is also a science that requires a deep understanding of chemistry and the properties of different natural and synthetic materials.
If one wants to become a professional perfumer, you must have a comprehensive understanding of the properties of different ingredients, as well as an understanding of how they interact with each other.
A challenging endeavour, the perfumery profession requires unique combination of artistic talent, technical knowledge, and rigorous training, as the sense of smell is highly subjective, and not everyone has the ability to distinguish between different fragrances and identify individual scent notes.
With very few formal training programmes available in perfumery, the craft is fascinating, complex, and has only been specialised by a few individuals worldwide, one of whom is Dr. Paolo Vranjes, the Founder and CEO of Dr. Vranjes Firenze, a luxury fragrance company based in Florence, Italy that was established in 1983.
His dedication to using only the highest quality raw materials and attention to detail in the blending process have made him a trusted name in the world of luxury fragrances, and his various luxury home products encompassing candles, diffusers, and more, are beloved by customers worldwide for their ability to transform any living space into a sensory haven.
During a recent visit to the kingdom during the 40th anniversary of the brand, Dr. Vranjes sat down with Prestige to discuss his journey into the business, where he finds inspiration for his craft, and more.
What inspired you to become a Master Perfumer?
Throughout my academic career, I devoted myself with passion to my studies of Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Sciences, and Cosmetology. Afterwards, I was able to put into practice what I learned alongside several of Italy’s greatest cosmetologists, creating formulations for thermal treatments and for spas.
I began cultivating my passion for perfumes first in private, and then later thanks to the intuition of my wife, Anna Maria, which kick started my career as a Master Perfumer. She always believed in me and continues to be my biggest fan.
She has a great sense of aesthetics, and it is thanks to her that we utilised the octagonal shape for our bottles that remains synonymous with our brand globally. She drew inspiration for this shape from an antique chandelier she saw in a glassmaker’s atelier many years ago, before we established the brand in 1983.
How does one become a professional ‘nose?’
Like all artists, ‘noses’ have an innate talent that is difficult to explain and difficult to share. Through studying, people can become fragrance evaluators, while “noses” are responsible for checking and evaluating the stability of essences and fragrances in the same manner a sommelier evaluates wine.
Where do you find inspiration for your iconic scents?
Every perfume has its own story. I have been a very curious person since I was a child, and I must admit that it forms the foundation of my creativity. I find inspiration everywhere: in the people I meet, the places I go, the adventures I face every day, but I find it above all in memories. I start from an image; from the emotion it evokes in me and then I try to recreate its scent.
Have you drawn any inspiration from the Asian region?
I have a great passion for Asia. I have travelled around the region a lot throughout my life and have tried to collect some olfactory memories for my fragrances. I believe Asia is an inexhaustible source of fascinating memories and precious raw materials that I have always been drawn to.
Two fragrances in which I have used different Asian essences are Green Flowers and Mirra Zafferano. Green Flowers embodies a wave of spring freshness thanks to notes of tea flowers, Italian citrus, ylang ylang, jasmine, vetiver, and wild mint. Sri Lanka is a paradise for the camellia sinensis tea plant, which grows there in an extraordinary environment for the purity of the air. The Green Flowers fragrance is inspired by this magical place.
Mirra Zafferano is an ode to several precious ingredients, and an olfactory journey between the East and the Mediterranean. It adds a sophisticated, sweet and gourmet touch to the day thanks to the notes of bergamot, myrrh, and amber, and is infused with saffron, frankincense, and vanilla. I’m currently creating a new fragrance inspired by Asia and can’t wait to reveal more.
In your opinion, what makes the perfumes you craft so unique?
I think it is a mix of sophistication, originality, and creativity.
The values that have always been recognised by our admirers are the quality of the raw materials we use, the originality of the wide palette of fragrances we offer, and the excellence of our fragrances that stems from the fact that they are entirely made in Italy.
Moreover, the persistence and endurance of our fragrances, along with the colours, sizes, and unique designs of our products all play a role in enriching our clients’ daily lives.
Where do you source the raw materials that you use?
In Florence, where we have created all our fragrances since 1983, we have a collection of more than 2,200 essences. The process usually begins with one of these essences, but I’m always open to innovate and to discover new ones. Some of the essences we work with are also very rare and exclusive, for example, the Middle Eastern Oud, the uniqueness of black jasmine, and rare roses.
What are your personal, favourite raw materials to work with?
Some of my favourites are citrus notes that come from Italy, as well as woody and amber ones. I love mixing together fresh and warm shades, as you can obtain a surprising and original effect.
Which fragrances have been your best-sellers, and why do you think they have become so iconic?
Rosso Nobile, Ambra, Ginger Lime, Milano, Oud Nobile, Acqua, and Peonia Black Jasmine are a few examples. I think quality, originality, and high performance are just some of the reasons why people love and keep choosing our scented creations.
Can you offer some advice on choosing scents for a home or personal use? How can someone approach finding a scent, going beyond simply liking how it smells?
For home fragrances, we look for the best combination to make the scent evaporate in a persistent and lasting way, while with Eau De Parfum, we select the best mix of ingredients to ensure the fragrance performs and is pleasant on the skin of the wearer. Both are intimate, each in its own way.
In the case of the home fragrances, you choose a scent to dress your private spaces that are shared only with those you love. In the case of a personal fragrance, the olfactory choice concerns the pleasure that a perfume can give to the wearer, and in turn to those around them.
By being good to ourselves, we can be good to others. I believe well-being is a virtuous circle.
It is said that scent associations can recall pleasant experiences and memories, what are some of your favourite associations?
I have many, but Rosso Nobile and Bellini Rosso Nobile goes beyond the science and chemistry of perfumes.
The former is inspired by my friendship with Francis, a filmmaker who is passionate about oenology, the study of wines. In the late 1990s, Francis was convinced that no one could recreate the scent of red wine that is so generous in the lands of Chianti and Montepulciano. I love challenges, so I immediately started working on the creation of Rosso Nobile.
After three years, I was finally satisfied with my “child” and sent Francis the fragrance in a decanter, inviting him to smell it through real vine branches. My friend was impressed by the result, and since then, year after year, the whole world continues to appreciate the fragrance and continues to choose it as an olfactory expression of its spaces.
Furthermore, I love to taste, experiment, and prepare cocktails. Among my favourites is the Bellini, also a favourite of my wife, Anna Maria. It was in front of this delicious cocktail, in Piazza San Marco in Venice, that I asked her to marry me. This was the inspiration for the Bellini Rosso Nobile.
What are some of the current biggest trends in the olfactory world?
Artistic perfumery is a globally growing field, it allows us all to express our individuality, personality, and uniqueness. A niche perfume enables us to choose a distinctive signature that becomes an essential part of our style and allows us to feel more confident and to surprise those around us.
So, a brand working in this industry has to invest in immersive and exciting experiences that offer the consumers the opportunity to personalise their style.
Another aspect that should not be underestimated is the importance of acting as sustainably and responsibly towards nature and people as possible.
Our brand is committed to producing everything in Tuscany to limit CO2 emissions. The magic contained in all Dr. Vranjes Firenze perfumed creations comes from a blend of carefully and responsibly selected raw materials of the highest quality. We select our suppliers based on their economic and social commitment to the areas where the raw materials are supplied and produced.
What new products are you currently working on?
I’m working on new creations aimed to satisfy our international customers’ needs, both for interior and to wear, but I can’t divulge too many details yet. However, I would like to express that it has been a great pleasure to celebrate our 40th anniversary with the Thai market. It is an incredible milestone in our history, and we look forward to many more.
For more information about Dr. Vranjes Firenze, click here.
